3D Printers
Introduction
What if your ideas could leave the screen and become something you could hold? Thanks to 3D printers, this isn’t science fiction anymore, it’s daily reality. Now that we’ve looked into 3D printing and its different methods, let’s dive into the diverse world of these remarkable machines and see how they turn imagination into reality.
Types of 3D Printers
1. Desktop 3D Printers
These are the most familiar type: small, affordable, and built for homes, schools, and makerspaces.
They typically use FDM (Fused Deposition Modeling) or resin-based technologies (SLA, DLP, LCD) to create everything from cosplay helmets to phone stands.
Popular examples:
Prusa i3 MK4 – known for reliability and open-source design.
Creality Ender 3 – budget-friendly, huge online community.
Elegoo Mars and Anycubic Photon – resin printers loved for fine details.
What makes them great: ease of use, affordability, and endless creative freedom.
2. Industrial 3D Printers
Industrial 3D printers are built for production, prototyping, and specialized manufacturing.
They use advanced methods like SLS (Selective Laser Sintering), DMLS (Direct Metal Laser Sintering), and Binder Jetting, which can handle metal powders, composites, or high-performance polymers.
Common brands and models:
Stratasys – pioneers of industrial FDM and PolyJet printers.
EOS – known for metal 3D printing and complex parts.
HP Multi Jet Fusion – fast and precise polymer printing.
Industries from aerospace to medical rely on these giants for their strength, accuracy, and scale.
3. Specialty & Emerging Printers
Beyond plastics and metals, new types of 3D printers are opening fresh possibilities:
Bioprinters: Printing living tissues, blood vessels, and potentially organs.
Bioprinter
Food printers: Extrude chocolate, dough, or even plant-based meat.
Concrete printers: Layer by layer, these machines build entire homes and structures.
These niche machines highlight just how diverse and innovative 3D printing technology has become.
Now we’re going to look into the 3D printer we’ve been using, it is ‘The Original Prusa i3 MK3S'.
The Original Prusa i3 MK3S Printer
Filament & Filament Holder
The plastic “ink” (usually PLA, PETG, ABS, etc.) comes on a spool, held at the top so it can unwind smoothly into the printer.
2. Threaded Rod & Printer Frame
The threaded rods help move the print head or bed precisely up and down (Z-axis).
The printer frame (the big black rectangle) keeps everything rigid and aligned, which is key for accurate prints.
Z-Axis, X-Axis, Y-Axis
Z-axis: Up and down movement (controlled by two stepper motors on each side).
X-axis: Left and right movement (moves the print head).
Y-axis: Forward and backward movement (moves the heated bed).
Together, these three axes position the print head over the bed in 3D space.
4. USB Port & SD Card Slot
Used to load your print files:
USB port (for firmware updates or direct connection)
SD card slot (commonly used to print sliced files)
EINSY Rambo Motherboard
The “brain” of the printer: controls motors, sensors, temperature, fans, etc.
Extruder Stepper & X Stepper
Extruder stepper: Pushes filament into the hotend.
X stepper: Moves the print head side to side on the X-axis.
Z1 Stepper & Z2 Stepper
Two motors on either side that raise and lower the X-axis gantry for the Z-axis movement.
Heated Bed (Heatbed)
The flat surface where your object is printed.
Heating helps the first layers stick better and reduces warping.
AC Power Cord
Powers the printer.
LCD Panel, LCD Knob & Reset Button
Contains the user interface to control the printer:
LCD screen: Shows menus and printing info.
Knob: Scrolls and selects menu options.
Reset button: Restarts the printer if something goes wrong.
Points to consider when using the 3D Printer
1. Slicing & Print Settings
Layer height: Lower layer height = smoother detail, higher = faster print.
Infill density: Higher infill for strength; lower saves material and time.
Supports: Add supports for overhangs if needed, and check placement.
Bed adhesion tools: Use brim, raft, or skirt depending on print shape.
Print settings from previous work
2. Preparation & Setup
Check the bed level: Ensure the build plate is properly leveled for good first layer adhesion.
Check if the sheet is in place: Ensure the sheet is properly seated on the magnetic heatbed.
Clean the build surface/ sheet: Remove dust, oils, or leftover filament bits by using Isopropyl alcohol on a paper towel or a warm soapy cloth.
Apply an adhesive to the sheet: This helps to hold the first layer of the object to be 3D printed in place.
Choose the right filament: Match filament type (PLA, ABS, PETG, etc.) to your print needs.
Ensure the filament type going to be used is the same one that was selected in the slicer settings.
When loading new filament, cut it in an angle to ensure easier insertion into the extruder and to reduce chances of clogging.
Check spool condition: Make sure filament isn’t tangled or brittle.
3. During Printing
Monitor the first layer: The most important; a bad first layer usually ruins the print.
Watch temperature: Keep an eye on nozzle and bed temps to avoid clogs or warping.
It is advisable to work with the 3D printer in a closed room to avoid cool air from outside interfering with the print. It makes it easier to control the printing environment in an enclosed room , it helps to keep the temperature stable, reducing warping and improving print quality.
Keep the area clear: Avoid bumping the printer or letting anything hit moving parts. Bumps lead to the X, Y or Z crashing. If you encounter this, pause the print, trim the bumps carefully to smoothen the layer surface and resume the print. If it continues crashing,
4. Maintenance & Safety
Regular cleaning: Remove filament residue and dust from fans and rails.
Check moving parts: Tighten belts, check for loose screws, clean rods.
Proper ventilation: Especially when printing with ABS or resins.
Handle hot parts carefully: Nozzle and bed stay hot even after printing.
5. After Printing
Remove print carefully: Let the bed cool before removing the print. If you encounter any resistance use a spatula or flexible bed to avoid damage.
Store filament properly: In dry, sealed containers to avoid moisture.
6. Software & Updates
Update firmware: Keeps your printer safer and fixes bugs.
Use trusted slicer settings: Start with manufacturer profiles, then adjust.
FAQS
What if I increase the print speed ? Will there be any effects on my print? Yes!! Printing a small object takes a few minutes, but larger models are more time consuming. There are prints that take dozens of hours to complete. The overall printing time can be changed using various methods.
The first way is to change the layer height in PrusaSlicer using the Print settings option in the upper right corner. The default setting is 0.15 mm (QUALITY). By choosing taller layer heights you can significantly shorten the print time (0.20 mm or 0.30 mm) at the cost of more visible layers.
On the other hand, choosing 0.10 mm (DETAIL) will result in extra detail at the cost of longer print times. Generally, we do not suggest going lower than 0.10 mm as the improvement in print quality with 0.07 or 0.05 mm layers is relatively minor with significantly longer print times. Prusa most used profiles 0.15 mm and 0.20 mm come in two different versions:
Quality - slower perimeters and infill, gives you better surface quality
Speed - faster perimeters and infill without much sacrifice of surface quality
Prusa MK3S vs MK4S: What’s the difference?
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Feature | MK3S | MK4S | Why it matters |
|---|---|---|---|
Release year | 2019 | 2023 | MK4S is newer |
Electronics | 8-bit Einsy Rambo | 32-bit xBuddy board | Faster processing, smoother prints |
Bed leveling | superPINDA probe (needs manual Live-Z adjust) | Loadcell sensor | Fully automatic first layer calibration |
Extruder | Bondtech gears | New Nextruder | Quick-swap nozzles, modular design |
Screen | Monochrome LCD + knob | Color LCD screen | Easier navigation and file previews |
Print speed | ~60–70 mm/s typical | Up to ~150+ mm/s | MK4S prints faster with quality thanks to input shaping |
Noise & stability | Quiet, can shake at high speeds | Input shaping & stiffer frame | More stable and quiet even at higher speeds |
Connectivity | SD card | USB drive, LAN, optional Wi-Fi | Easier file transfers & remote control |
Setup | Manual first layer tuning | Fully automatic | Easier for beginners |
References
Original Prusa MK4S 3D Printer
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